blossom blog
Haircolour Part 2 - Henna
OK, so having read part 1 of my Toxic Haircolour blog you will now probably have been scared into reading labels, realizing what nasties are commonly found in conventional haircolour.
No need to panic, there are safe and ‘safer’ options out there for those that prefer not to have ‘virgin’ hair.
But having said that, one of our blossom fans pointed out recently, she had been colouring her hair non stop for 13yrs and had no idea that under all that coloured and heat tortured, frizzy hair was a head of luscious soft feminine curls. It took over a year to grow it out and she has been getting comments on it ever since. So it may just be worth trying colour free!
It has been about ten years now since I have had conventional or should I say toxic, chemical haircolour on my scalp. As the years go by I notice more 'natural hilights' of the silver variety but my Henna takes care of that. The only totally natural hair colour available to my knowledge is Henna, which I do myself. That is 100% Henna (Lawsonia Inermis) and not compound Henna. Compound Henna is a mixture that can contain many undesirable things, including Sodium Picramate, metallic salts and other chemicals/additives. The metallic salts in these compound Hennas are the reason that most hairdressers are scared of Henna. When using conventional colour or permanent waving over these metallic salts a chemical reaction occurs which involves, fizzing, bubbling and heat – enough to scare the life out of you and your hairdresser!
But true 100% Henna (Lawsonia Inermis) does not contain these metallic salts and therefore poses no problem, but uninformed hairdresssers are still scared. Health food stores often sell “Henna” in boxes that come in every shade under the sun. These are generally compound hennas and when you read the ingredients label you will be surprised at how many chemical additives they contain. True Henna is from a plant called Lawsonia Inermis and has a orange red pigment. This henna can be mixed with other plants like Cassia or Indigo to achieve a variety of different shades. Cassia will lighten the hennas orange red pigment and give more golden tones whereas Indigo will darken and add more blue violet tones. Black is even an achievable shade using a combination of these plants. Note that Henna will gradually fade out over time, it only deposits colour pigment so you cannot go lighter, it will blend and soften greys but any grey/blonde hair will come out brighter and lighter. This just adds to the natural, tonal change giving a more natural/less block colour.
One of the best websites for learning more about henna is Henna for Hair where you can download The Free e book on ‘how to henna’. It is a great resource and explains all the 'ins and outs' of Henna and there are also recipies/formulations/photos of real hair before and after etc.
At this site you can check out all the colour/shade options with photos of real life people and details of the formulation that they use. Often they include before and after photos and as you will see you don't have to end up "Flame Red" just because you choose to use Henna. Don’t be frightened, it may seem complicated at first but when you have had a go it really isn’t that involved and as you will see there is a huge array of shade variations that you can achieve with the addition of Cassia or Indigo. You can purchase 100% henna from some good health food stores and also online at www.hennamoon.com.au Here you can also get Cassia and Indigo as well as pre blended combinations of these and Henna which helps to simplify things for the beginner.
Once you have done some research and are informed I highly reccommend snipping a swatch of your hair and testing your formulation. If you are happy with the final result you can either have a go at applying your mix yourself or take your pre-mixed Henna formulation to a hairdresser and get them to apply it for you. Don’t forget that your mix should be made up ahead of time so that the pigment has sufficient time to release. Once applied, cover in cling wrap or a disposable plastic shower cap and head home. Henna needs up to several hours to penetrate and remember that you can even keep left over mix and freeze it for next time!
Now that you have fabulously coloured, chemical free, glossy hair you won't look back!
However, if Henna is not for you, if it is too much to get your head around, you don't want a red/copper/ or warm tone of colour, or you want to lighten your natural colour, then our next part 3 blog will cover other 'safer' options than conventional haircolour, which may suit you better so stay tuned.
Till next time, happy Henna-ing!
Toxic Haircolour Part 1
Just DYING for that perfect haircolour? Not literally I hope!
I thought it was time to broach the subject of haircolour. This is a large subject so I will blog in several parts. Having spent over 11 years as a Hairdresser and finally as a Technical Educator/Colour Expert for a leading Hair colour/Hair product company I have had my hair coloured ALOT over the years. I have a box stashed away with hillarious photos of me Platinum Blonde, Red, Copper, Pink, Honey Blonde, Orange, Black, Blue Black, Black with bright Red stripes, Brunette, you get the idea. After all these years I shudder to think of all the other stylists that I have worked with that happily applied colour to clients without wearing gloves. Even at the tender age of 16 when I started my apprenticeship, I suspected things weren't cool and groovey, when I noticed how some colours and especially bleach was really 'bitey' on my skin. It was from then on that I wore gloves religiously, thank goodness.
Conventional haircolour is ladened with all sorts of toxic chemicals which can cause common reactions like allergic and skin irritation issues but the more worring issues are ones that come from regular exposure like as seen in haircolourists which can include a significantly increased risk of mulitple myeloma (malignant disease of the bone marrow), leukaemia (malignant disease afffecting the white blood cells) and non- Hodgkins lymphoma (malignant disease of the lymph nodes). Below is a list of some of the Toxic Chemicals found in haircolour. I agree that this may be a bit of a 'heavy' read but it's worth knowing about if you, like me colour your hair. Remember that one of the major Haircolour companies includes the below chemicals because "Your worth it":
Paraphenylenediamine (PPD)
PPD is a benzene-derived chemical present in more than two-thirds of chemical hair dyes, often even in ‘natural’ ones. It is classified as dangerous to the environment by the European Union and banned in France, Germany and Sweden. The most toxic chemical in hair dyes, it’s an irritant with reactions from mild to severe, and can cause organ system toxicity plus birth and fertility defects.
Hydrogen peroxide
Commonly found in long lasting and permanent hair colours as well as hair bleaches. It is the Hydrogen peroxide that lightens your natural pigment in your hair an supplies the oxygen source required for the PPD to oxidise (swell to a point where it can no longer escape through the outer cuticle layer of the hair shaft). Hydrogen peroxide was the main reason for the 'bitey' feeling I felt when not wearing gloves and it has been banned from cosmetic use in Japan and restricted in Canada. Studies show that it can have effects on our brain and nervous system. Bad news I guess for all those long term Platinum Blondes out of a box.
Ammonia
Ammonia is the reason for the pungent smell, ammonia is present to soften, swell and open the hair fibre so the dye (PPD usually) can penetrate the hair and is an irritant to the skin, eyes and is a respiratory system toxicant.
Resorcinol
Resorcinol is classified by the European Union as harmful, irritant to eyes and skin and dangerous for the environment. It is also a known human immune system toxicant and is one of the main reasons for allergic reaction to haircolour.
Toluene
Toluene-2,5-diamine and toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate are found in hair dyes and are considered safe to be used in current concentrations, however toulene-2,5-diamine is an irritant to the skin.
Persulfates
Sodium, potassium and ammonium sulfates are in hair dyes and bleaches and can cause respiratory problems through inhalation or skin and eye irritation by contact .
Parabens
Found in many cosmetics as preservatives (Synthetic). Parabens are a suspected carcinogen, they mimic estrogen, with links having been found particularly to breast cancer.
Lead acetate
This is present in some hair coloring products that are used for gradual or progressive colouring. Lead has well-known damaging effects on the brain and nervous system is a known human reproductive toxicant and developmental toxicant. By the way this ingredient rates 10 on the 1-10 scale for Hazard according to The Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetics Database USA.
4-ABP
Found in some dyes, this has been linked to the development of cancer.
Well after all that I am sure you are reconsidering colouring your hair and wondering how you will get by when mother nature blesses you with those wonderfull silver hilights, which can look fabulous on some people! Never fear, there is a much safer way to add colour to your hair whether you are a 'DIY' colourist or whether you go to a salon.
Stay tuned for part 2, subscribe to my blog, share with all your friends as the next installment will give tips and information on how to colour your hair more safely!